Thursday, August 8, 2013

Two months... in the blink of an eye

Whoa! I've been living and working around Glacier National Park for more than two months already. It's hard to believe it's been so long -- and that I've been so bad about keeping up this blog. Life has been simultaneously busier and simpler than I expected. Plus, the internet connection where I stay is appallingly slow. But I've found some lovely coffee shops with speedy WiFi, and I do have an occasional day off. So let's get caught up!

In a nutshell, life is good. I'm already more than half way through the season here at Glacier Guides. By the end of September I'll likely be done with work and primed for play. But for now it's the busy, hectic season for tourist-oriented businesses around the Park.

So what have I been doing this whole time?! It's been a satisfying blend of work, play and spontaneous socializing. I'll fill you in a bit here, and you can find links to lots of photos and some videos at the bottom of this post. [You can click on the images below to view a larger version of each.]

About the work
   

my official guide patch
my guide patch
This is the 31st season that Glacier Guides has offered professionally guided hikes and backpack trips in Glacier National Park. Of course, they also offer water-based fun through the affiliated Montana Raft Co.

I've been tremendously impressed by how organized and committed the staff are, from the owners and long-time guides to my fellow newbies. These folks want to be here, care about the Park and value customer service. The staff includes locals and characters from across the country, all of whom bring fascinating experiences and stories.

ripple marks in the sedimentary rocks are evidence of an ancient inland sea
ripples = evidence of an inland sea!
The season began in early June with trainings and orientations -- some for all staff, some for new hires, and some even hosted by the National Park Service. We learned all kinds of stuff about Park history, policy, geology, wildlife, plants, bear management, science and more. And then it started to get busy...

Since late June, I've been guiding day hikes and backpacking trips. I've been surprised by how many people book trips many months in advance. The office staff do a great job guiding these prospective customers through the options and figuring out what we can offer that they might really enjoy here in Glacier. With so many customers, guides, vehicles/shuttles, permits, and the inevitable last-minute changes and surprises, there are a lot of balls in the air around here!
 

group at the lookout atop Swiftcurrent Peak
at the Swiftcurrent Lookout
So far I've led four backpack trips and a dozen day hikes. I estimate I've walked about 240 miles so far while wearing my guide patch. Most of the trips have been what I consider relatively mild, paced to accommodate a range of ages, abilities and expectations. These trips require a fair amount of preparation, especially overnight outings. I've been able to take good care of everyone so far, including learning to cook much fancier and yummier meals than I've ever prepared for myself in the backcountry! My guests have come from all over the country, and even from a few other countries. We've seen it all, from hot to cool, from calm to windy, from pest-free to buggy, and from dry to dumping.

taking a horse up to the Sperry Chalet
Howdy, pardner!
Whether in a backcountry site or back at base camp, I'm usually sleeping in a tent. But there have been a few delightful exceptions. In addition to its cool historic lodges, Glacier National Park has two old chalets still in operation up in the alpine zone (above 6,000 feet): Granite Park Chalet and Sperry Chalet. These 100-year-old buildings, which predate cars in the park and are reachable only by trail, were restored a couple of decades ago and are available to visitors. They are extremely popular and book months in advance. I've had the privilege of taking several groups to one or the other of these awesome high country destinations, which means bunk beds with pillows and linens -- no carrying my tent, sleeping bag or sleeping pad! Even in big country, sometimes it's the little things that make the difference (especially when it's rainy out). Plus, I got to ride a HORSE up to Sperry Chalet, just like most guests did way back when. Yee-HAW!
 

mountain goat near Logan Pass
a mountain goat poses
And oh yes, there have been critters! Grizzly bears, black bears, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, moose, elk, deer, marmots, ground squirrels, pikas, coyotes, weasels, butterflies, golden eagles, bald eagles, prairie falcons, red-tailed hawks, grouse, woodpeckers, ptarmigan, songbirds galore, and more.

I've delighted in watching the wildflowers put on one spectacular display after another. There's a particular pleasure in witnessing the transition of spring to summer throughout a park as varied as this one.


rafting the Middle Fork Flathead River in June
rafting in June with fellow trainees
A Note About River Rafting: I thought I might also be guiding trips on the river (Middle and North forks of the Flathead). But it turns out I've been too busy on land! I went through some wet training early in the season, and even purchased my own "PFD" (which most layfolk like me probably know as a "life jacket"). Then I found my schedule filled with hiking -- which is why I came out here, after all. Our company has many more river guides than hiking guides, and likewise many more river customers. I've settled for going on dozens of rafts trips for free during my own free time, especially during our spells of hotter weather. It's a rough life...

About the play & socializing
   

I have surprised myself a little by happily adopting the local flow. Life here is so busy, yet so simple. It's been easy to forget about the outside world (sorry, friends and family!). I'm even starting to forget about my phone some days. Awesome!

my pal Scott is riding his bike from Canada to Mexico
a friend wheels through town
Because I live amongst a bunch of friendly, young and happy-go-lucky folks [see below], most evenings and a fair number of days bring spontaneous opportunities, including such favorites as: sitting around telling stories; beersbee; playing a board game; watching a movie; swimming in the lake next door; jumping in on a raft trip; jumping off the old bridge; heading across the highway for breakfast or dinner at the outdoor Backwoods Bistro; participating in the extremely casual Professional Boaters and Rafters golf league (!); cruising to the free weekly mystery meat dinner at the Dew Drop Inn in Coram (last night's fare purported to be "Mountain Lion Biscuits and Gravy"); and, of course, heading to the nearby West Glacier Bar (a very popular pastime). The upshot is that there's always something fun and casual to enjoy with my neighbors.

you never know what you'll find at Logan Pass
Pat contends with some locals
While I have been primarily focused on the very local so far this summer, a few visitors have managed to bring the outside world briefly back into focus. My pal Scott stopped by during the early stages of his Continental Divide bike ride from Canada to Mexico. And my great friends Pat and Anne, who live only a few hours away, let me tag along as they finally explored the Logan Pass area of the Park (it's about time!). I'm pleased to report that I also got to tag along on raft trips with these fine folks. Thanks for coming to see me, friends!
[Planning ahead for visitors is a challenge, as my time is largely scheduled and because we sometimes have to deal with last-minute changes.

A bit more about my life in West Glacier, Montana
   

Lower Slide Lake in Glacier National Park
Slide Lake
I live in a rustic, tarp-infested "campground" along with about half of the staff working out here this season (the rest are local or have some other connection/arrangement). It's nothing fancy, that's for sure. I do have access to electricity in my tent, which is great. There's WiFi internet access, but it's so slow I can't use it to upload my photos and such. I'm sharing the old restroom and beat up kitchen facilities with about 40 other folks, complete with predictable "tragedy of the commons" deterioration.

However, I quickly learned that my sacrifice of amenities and privacy comes with benefits, namely good company. I'm one of the oldest in camp, to say the least. Yes, being surrounded by a lot of young folks does mean things are noisier and messier than I'm used to at this stage in life. But there's much to be said about young energy and enthusiasm. I've been thrilled with the great attitudes and friendly nature of most of my neighbors and colleagues. They're lots of fun. And there's plenty they can teach me. Plus, there's quite the volume of beverages being shared around!

wild geraniums below Chief Mountain
flowers below Chief Mountain
I haven't traveled around much. I have been content simply to be, marveling at how the time flies by. I have driven very little, not counting work. When I'm not on or prepping for a trip, I occasionally leave camp to go to nearby West Glacier or a little farther to Coram, Hungry Horse, Columbia Falls, Whitefish -- even to Kalispell a couple of times. I hardly ride my poor bike; it's just been resting next to my old tent, gathering pollen and dust. Perhaps most surprisingly, I have not been on many personal "for fun" hikes yet (though I think that is about to change).

Fun Fact: I have not slept in a real bed since late May. It's been mostly in tents, some in the back of my truck, and a few lucky evenings in an old bunk bed at an historic alpine chalet [see chalet trips description above].

I've taken lots of photos and movies so far this summer! Thanks to all my colleagues, guests and friends
for the great memories. Here are some links you can explore:
looking down into Many Glacier
Many Glacier valley



 
   
on Scenic Point
I'm having this much fun in Montana!
   

   
    

6 comments:

  1. Hi Jeff - how lovely to see all the fun you are having! I'm looking forward into digging into photos an dvideos
    -Robin

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    1. Yay! Thanks, Robin. I've posted plenty for you to explore -- assuming you've got a lot of time to kill. :-)

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  2. THIS IS AWESOME. Jeff, you are having the coolest adventure! I loved learning more about how your summer has been going. It sounds incredible. I want to know more about your animal encounters. What is the creature in your profile pic? Have fun!

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    1. Thanks, Jocelyn! I've been having a blast. I hope you are taking advantage of summer freedom, too. :-)

      It's been a great few months for wildlife sightings. Just last week I got really close to a mother black bear and her cub - yikes.
      The fuzzy face in my Google profile image is that of a hoary marmot I photographed high in the Sierras in Yosemite several years back.

      Take care,
      Jeff

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  3. Wow Jeff!!

    What an incredible update!! Definitely worth the loooong wait!! :)

    As usual, your photos are spectacular. The videos were so fun with the very cooperative goats!!

    I can see that you are exactly where you should be, Jeff...no other place for you than where you are right now...

    I intend to be the subject of one of your photos next year, if it is at all possible to choose your guide!

    Keep enjoying and keep updating whenever possible!! :))

    Peace & Love,

    Bill

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    1. Hi, Bill! And thanks. :-)

      Yes, I sure am having a delightful summer. Plus I'm learning some things about myself -- It's a good thing.

      I'd love to feature you in a blog post as part of my adventures. Any season would be great; I intend to be out there exploring for at least the next year.

      - Jeff

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