2,551 miles: the long way from Seattle to West Glacier

Hi! I'm back, and excited to deliver this overdue blog post. I am camped in West Glacier, Montana, still unsure just what my summer will be like. But the trip here already created many great memories. I drove 2,551 miles over two weeks -- from Seattle to southeast Oregon to southern Idaho to the Continental Divide to Missoula, Montana... and then to the edge of Glacier National Park. The following rather lengthy post is a summary of this road adventure, complete with clickable photos and links to photo albums!
 

Part I: Southeast Oregon   [click here to see select photos]
   

Exploring the Stonehenge Memorial near Maryhill

I left Seattle on Mothers Day, along with my friends Peter and Don (who graciously crammed into my over-packed truck). Our destination: Malheur National Wildlife Refuge and attractions thereabouts. Our primary interest was birding, though we were game to enjoy cool things we encountered on our way -- like the Stonehenge replica, a memorial to those who died in World War I, on the bluffs overlooking the Columbia River near Maryhill. (It's visible on Google Maps satellite view).

We three proceeded south into Oregon, following scenic highways through the mountains -- and almost ran out of gas! Note to self: If you are traveling in a state where you aren't allowed to pump your own gas, don't run your gas tank down to near-empty in remote country where small town gas stations close early. A close call!

Our first night was spent at a lovely Wheeler County campground, where we heard the gobbling of wild turkeys. We then continued south, stopping briefly to admire some birds and history exhibits at the Sheep Rock unit of the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument. Moving on, we passed through Burns, Oregon and arrived at our primary objective: Malheur National Wildlife Refuge.

At the Malheur NWR Visitor Center

Malheur NWR was a blast. We spent several days exploring the area, mostly birding but also enjoying surprisingly diverse scenery and habitats -- from large lakes, to wetlands, to wet and dry fields, to aspen-cloaked mountain flanks, to amazing geology and remnants of volcanic eruptions and lava flows. We camped two nights at the lovely and peaceful Page Springs campground, where a resident pair of Great Horned Owls proved reliable fun for us gawkers. Much of our time was spent birding in the valley. We spent one day circumnavigating Steens Mountain, getting our first looks at its dramatic east face as well as the Alvord Desert and the tiny town of Fields within site of the Nevada state line. We spent another half day driving partway up Steens Mountain from the west side, delighting in the dramatically changing landscape as we gained elevation.

Tree Swallow

After a few days we made our way southwest across the sage flats to the Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge. This place is clearly quite striking -- and quite remote and rustic. There was free camping to be had, but we were on our own for such things as potable water or a table-like surface. We also hit the area during a chilly, wet spell. But it was a short walk from our odd little camp spot to an old hot spring for anyone who was game for a warm water soak. Ahhhh..... Oh, and we DID see antelope (American pronghorn)! The next day we drove west out of the refuge, enjoying amazing geology and striking views of the Warner Valley.

Great Horned Owl

I should add that I enjoyed some excellent birding, especially with my talented friends. All told we saw nearly 130 species of birds over approximately four days. Highlights for me included Sandhill Cranes, White-faced Ibises, White Pelicans, Black-necked Stilts, Black Terns, Wilson's Snipes, Curlews, Willets, Swainson's Hawks, Clark's Grebes, two species of Phalaropes, Burrowing Owls, Golden Eagles, Green-tailed Towhees, abundant Mountain Bluebirds and a Bobolink!

After leaving Hart Mountain, I drove my delightful and patient travel companions all the way back to Bend, Oregon so they could catch a plane home. I lingered in Bend to organize myself a bit. And then I headed east...

Part II: Southern Idaho to Montana   [click here to see select photos]
   

From Bend I drove all the way to Idaho. I crossed the state line at Ontario, Oregon, and entered the storied Snake River Plain. I continued east, skirting the mountains to the north while enjoying ever more beautiful light and scenery along with a few antelope sightings.

As darkness fell I arrived in the town of Hailey, Idaho, where my old friends John and Diane live. They've been there for a dozen years, and I soon learned that I've been a fool to wait so long to visit. They are as delightful as ever, as well as gracious and generous hosts. And all their boasts proved true: They live in a great place!

At the Silver Creek Preserve

I ended up spending a couple of days with my friends and had a grand time. We went for a lovely walk at The Nature Conservancy's Silver Creek Preserve. My hosts showed me the wonderful forested trails and wetlands along the Big Wood River behind their neighborhood. I went for a hike up Proctor Mountain by Sun Valley, and also drove up to Galena Pass for a look-see. John led me on a swell bike ride to the old mine at Triumph and back. I also ate very well!

It took a powerful lure to motivate me to leave Hailey. I'd been itchin' for several years to check out Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve in south-central Idaho. And now I had my chance.

I made it to Craters!

It. Was. Awesome! I was excited to finally get to Craters, and the place didn't disappoint. I rolled into the visitor center right at the scheduled time for the daily afternoon ranger talk. I was the only guest, and Ranger Sue gamely presented her whole talk just for me. I explored a bit that evening, then found a site in the lovely campground, where I spent a couple of nights.

Craters is absolutely huge. And largely desolate. It's a sprawl of wild and often impassable lava flows dating back about 2,000 to 15,000 years, depending where you are. There are cinder cones and spatter cones; lava tubes (some of which you can explore!); rough, smooth and coiled/ropey lava flows; molds of trees that got covered by flowing lava; and a surprising diversity of plant and animal life managing to survive out there -- until the next lava flow oozes out of the ground.

Small volcanic cinders

The Monument has done a great job developing a very small area of the park, granting good access to lots of scenic and fascinating features while leaving the vast majority wild. I really enjoyed driving the loops and spur roads, and hiking around. I saw some nice flowers, a fair number of birds, and even some yellow-bellied marmots. I also caught a rare glimpse of a sphinx moth!

I stalled my last morning there, wanting to enjoy the great weather and not feeling done with this amazing spot. But I had places to go and people to see.

So I hit the road again, heading northeast. I passed just south of the Lost River Range, the Lemhi Range and the Beaverhead Mountains. I crossed Interstate 15, sticking to remote dirt roads. As the southern flanks of the Centennial Mountains came into view, I stopped to check out a surprise attraction along that lonely stretch: an exhibit about the 1877 Camas Meadow Battle between defiant Nez Perce warriors, under the leadership of Chief Joseph, and the U.S. Army. Part of a fascinating, complicated and sad chapter in our nation's history.

I ended up driving around the Centennial Mountains, briefly checking out the Henry's Lake area and then driving over Red Rock Pass and entering Montana. I soon found myself at another worthy attraction: The high, harsh, isolated and beautiful Red Rock Lakes National Wildlife Refuge.

Montana side of the Centennial Mountains

This place was cool. I was slack-jawed at the rugged beauty of the landscape. And I wasn't sure where to go. The visitor center -- which, it turned out, isn't much and isn't necessarily open when you expect it to be -- was down the valley on rough roads, and I wanted to make camp soon. I started following a spur road and soon saw a moose, which I took as a sign to keep going. So I bounced my way past Elk Lake -- even used a little 4-wheel traction in a couple of places! -- and found an established camp area in a pretty forest clearing farther up the drainage. The whole area was gorgeous.

In the morning I awoke to clear blue skies, crisp air, frost on the ground and ice on the truck. The warm sun soon melted everything. I spent the morning walking around, birding and drinking in the views on my slow way back down this inviting valley. I didn't see anyone for hours.

Missoulians!

Back out in the broad, open main valley I enjoyed sweeping views and more solitude. I also gained an appreciation for how incredibly windy these landscapes can get. I spent less and less time out of the truck as I worked my way west through and then beyond the refuge. I finally found myself back at I-15, and this time hopped aboard to cruise north.

My next destination: Missoula, Montana. As always, it was a great place. And importantly, I got to spend time with my great friends Anne and Pat, who are as fun and as engaged in their community as ever. They once again hosted and entertained me. I enjoyed a swell Memorial Day weekend with them: great food, fine company, a lovely hike in the Bitterroots. I was sure grateful for the chance to relax and prepare for my next adventure in such a civilized place!

And then it was on to West Glacier, where am I now. I'll write again soon about what's going on here, where I am told that things will get more and more hectic. As the adventure unfolds, I will try to heed this bit of wisdom from our wide-open west: