A social October

Hello, hello to all my friends, family and adoring fan(s). I am once again overdue with an update. In part this is because I've been busy spending time with great folks -- including some of you! Read on to see what I did in October. It's a long post, so you might want to grab a favorite beverage and settle in. And please leave me a comment if you saw me last month (or wish you had).

[You can click on the images below to view a larger version of each. Also, I've collected links to all the referenced photo sets at the bottom for your convenience.]

Moose!

First, I will quickly wrap up September. My last two work gigs with Glacier Guides were September 23 and 24. These were exciting outings, as they were during a stormy stretch. Check out my image set here, which includes a great video of a moose!   In the end, I estimate I walked just shy of 450 miles as a guide in Glacier National Park this summer. I suppose that's more than the average office worker would have achieved in 3 to 4 months. I feel lucky to have enjoyed such a spectacular place and met lots of swell folks.

Mountain poser

I also had a little more Glacier area fun in later September. I went on a spectacular, calves-and-buns-burnin' scramble almost all the way up Great Northern Mountain, just south of the national park (snow and ice kept us a few hundred feet below the tippy top, but the views were still stellar). A group of us braved dramatic winds to go up the Dry Fork Valley and on up to Cut Bank Pass from the Two Medicine area. Finally, I squeezed in a solo hike to the Huckleberry Lookout above the North Fork Flathead River on a very cloudy day.

The Hunt for Road October

Goodbye, summer home

October 1st dawned partly sunny -- a departure from nearly two weeks of stormy weather that had kept West Glacier wet and had closed the Going-to-the-Sun Road due to snow. It was quiet. A few of my fellow guides were still around, but most had already left. Ominously, on my last night, a window was smashed in someone else's car parked a mere 30 feet from my tent, apparently by a bear [a black bear had been spotted several times in camp at night recently, and there were paw and claw marks on the car]. So it felt like a good time to leave. I took advantage of the nice weather to break down the campsite I'd called home for four months.

I had thought about sticking around into October to witness the advance of Autumn colors in the area -- but the weather was discouraging. So I decided that it was time for me to go back to Yellowstone National Park, a mere day's drive away. I hadn't been to America's first national park since May of 1995 and was excited to see it again, this time in the Fall when animals would be rutting.

Shutdown!  ... and alternatives

In the spirit of Robert Burns:  My best laid plans to visit Yellowstone went in October astray.

Bad timing at Yellowstone

Or, Congress screwed me up! As most of us had been observing and were aware, squabbling within Congress and between some of its factions and the U.S. Administration ended up shutting down the U.S. Government at the beginning of the federal fiscal year. This meant, among many other things, that all national park units were closed. Bad timing! While I found this very frustrating, I realized there was plenty else to explore. So explore I did, using my Montana map book as a reference and somewhat random source of inspiration.

Where ravens walk, trouble follows

First up: the Swan River Valley. I had yet to see any of this place so close to where I'd been all summer. This charming valley is nestled between the Mission and Swan mountain ranges, both of which were looking very dramatic thanks to recent snows. I stopped in at the Swan River National Wildlife Refuge (what there is of it). I drove to easily accessed forest lookout towers, one of which had delightful views of the Mission Mountains. [All the lookouts I drove to were closed, of course, but I still got some nice photos and videos.]  I drove up to Napa Point to go on a great, snowy hike all the way to Inspiration Pass and back. I met the national champion Western Larch tree. I drove way up high on the slopes of Morell Mountain for easy access to a 8,200-foot summit.

Enjoying sunrise ... from bed!

When I reached Lincoln, Montana, southeast of the Swan Valley, I decided to head for Stonewall Mountain. I saw the lookout tower from town and decided I should check it out. I drove such amusingly named forest roads as Sucker Creek and Keep Cool, eventually finding an open high perch to camp within site of the lookout. The next morning I headed out for that target, walking through mud and snow to get there. I followed fresh tracks of a large black bear much of the way. The summit delivered sweeping views, bright sun, and push-you-over winds that froze my fingers. The sun-warmed descent competed a fun adventure and much-needed exercise.

Click here to check out photos and videos from my western Montana explorations. 

A Helena time

Taking in a Helena view

After a week by myself, it was time to socialize. I stopped in Helena, Montana's state capital, to visit one of my new guide colleagues. I ended up staying several days. Why? So much to see and do!  My first standout experience: traffic. Workday rush hour, lines of vehicles, waiting through 1 or 2 cycles at stoplights. Nothing special for most folks, but I had not seen any such thing -- or a U.S. Interstate highway, for that matter -- since May.

What the Hel'z Belles is going on here?!

My friend teamed up with her pal (and her pal's family), and together they treated me to an unforgettable Hel-town introduction. Hike up Mount Helena? You betcha. Drive to the Belt Mountains for a big hike to the mind-blowing Hanging Valley? Absolutely. Gorge on hand-made goodies at the historic Parrot Candy Shop? Piece of cake (or chocolate). Attend a Cow Tipping Improv comedy show? Surely. Visit a brewery? How about two! Read a Barbie short story aloud? There's a first time for everything...  My colorful hosts were as generous as they were entertaining. Thanks for the fun times Dre, Lace, Marley and Pi! 

My Helena area pics can be found part-way down in this set.

The promise of Pinedale

Obligations eventually pressed me from Helena. Namely, I had promised to meet my friend Dan down in Pinedale, Wyoming. Dan was in the middle of his own excellent adventure. In July he had stopped in to see me in West Glacier. Since then he had hiked and biked a fair way south. Now it was time to catch up with him, join him for a big mountain trek and then give him a ride to Spokane.

Grand Tetons as seen from the west

I cruised south through the Madison Valley. I stopped at Quake and Hebgen lakes, where I was introduced to the incredible and tragic tale of the 1959 earthquake and landslide. Just for the heck of it, I drove to the West Yellowstone park entrance to see the "closed" signs in person; other folks were doing the same. Continuing south, I enjoyed spectacular views of the Tetons from the the Driggs, Idaho area. Then I crossed into Wyoming for the first time in 18 years, driving over Teton Pass and down through Jackson Hole. I finally arrived in the town of Pinedale, which sits at an impressive 7,200 feet above sea level, after dark. Dan was already there, and had secured a room for us at the delightful Rivera Lodge (I recommend highly). Bonus: this motel is next to the town brewery!

portion control

The main event was an attempted hike to Jackass Pass to see the Cirque of the Towers in the renown Wind River Range. This would be a significant trip at any time of year: it's 17 miles roundtrip, the trail starts at over 9,000 feet, and the pass is at nearly 11,000. Enhancing the adventure: recent storms had brought early winter conditions to this high country; we didn't know how far we would be able to get due to snow. For starters, the brisk morning, 1.5-hour drive out to the Big Sandy trailhead was lovely. Then we headed off, making good time to Big Sandy Lake on a relatively flat trail. By the time we reached that lake we were in consistent shallow snow, the skies had gone from blue to gray, and there were light snow flurries. Hmmm...

Handsome! The mountains, that is.

After a snack, we proceeded up, hiking through deeper snow, to Ford Lake. Here we encountered ice-covered rocks in addition to the snow that occasionally obscured our route. We scrambled our way to the head of this lake for lunch. Dan had a good feeling about the questionable-looking weather, and we continued up. We soon found ourselves at Arrowhead Lake, within site of Jackass Pass. And whadya know, the skies were starting to turn blue again -- probably related to the increasing wind gusts. We started a slightly dicey climb up the west side of this lake, picking our way through a bolder field covered with snow while trying not to "post hole" and get hurt. We finally made it up the the ridge at the head of the valley. We hiked through drifts of snow up to the highpoint of 10,900 feet right above adjacent Jackass Pass. The strong winds were cold and challenging, but the vistas were outstanding. We had a full view of the very dramatic Cirque of the Towers, plus wonderful views back whence we had come. We took a slew of photos and video footage before scooting down. We were cold, and it was a long way back to my truck! Of course we did make it back -- well past sunset -- after enjoying gorgeous late evening light at Big Sandy Lake. After a dark drive back to Pindedale, we celebrated our thrilling trip with a visit to the brewery. Thanks for inspiring such an exciting hike, Dan!

Click here to see my photos and video form this awesome hike. 

A meeting in Missoula ... eventually

Capture that view, Dan!

After our excellent Wind River outing, Dan and I were content to chill. Which worked out well, as the next day brought a lot of rain and low clouds across the region. Besides, we were headed out; we wanted to get to Missoula in a day or so. First, we gamely explored the Fremont Lake area by truck and by foot, but views were obscured and everything was wet. We traveled a bit by backcountry roads, but the mud was startling slick! We picked up our pace, driving back through Jackson, then through the Grand Canyon of the Snake River in hard rain. We drove around the huge Palisades Reservoir in Idaho, marveling at the low water level. We cruised through Swan Valley and Antelope Flat. We skirted Idaho Falls and crossed an area signed "Idaho National Labs." In the dimming evening, we enjoyed the intriguing drive north between the parallel Beaverhead and Lemhi mountain ranges. We crested the gentle 7,150' Gilmore Summit. We concluded the day by heading down to the town of Salmon, Idaho, crossing the 45th Parallel en route. There is a brewery in Salmon.

Owls. On sticks. Obviously.

The next day brought gorgeous weather. We continued north, crossing into Montana at Lost Trail Pass and entering the upper Bitterroot Valley. We took a side trip to the Lake Como reservoir and points above. Then it was back to the highway, which led us through ever more populous areas to Missoula. We arrived at the home of my dear friends Pat and Anne, just in time for one of their delicious home-cooked, locally-sourced dinners. After dinner, a bonus: the monthly meeting of the Five Valleys Audubon Society. And for a nightcap, a trip to Big Dipper Ice Cream -- a treat any time of year!

Surveying Missoula from Sentinel Mountain

Our Missoula hosts always provide restful accommodations and good grub. We got to hang out with them a bit and learn about their latest cool community endeavor. Dan and I took advantage of very pleasant afternoon weather by hiking up and over Sentinel Mountain. We made quick work of the popular, zig-zagging trail that leads up to the "M" on the hill above the UM campus. Then we continued up, ultimately gaining more than 2,000 feet on this very worthy urban outing. We made it a loop by dropping down the back side of the mountain to the Clark Fork. Upon our return we rewarded ourselves ... with a trip to Big Dipper Ice Cream, of course. Dinner and a movie with Anne and Pat completed a swell day. Thanks for taking such good care of us, Anne and Pat!

Images from our Missoula visit are at the bottom of this set.

A return to Seattle

The first photo I took in WA (6/1/95)

Dan had a train to catch in Spokane, Washington, so we bid farewell to our Missoula friends and headed west. I was recreating a significant personal moment: on June 1, 1995, I drove for the first time from Missoula, Montana all the way to Seattle, which would be my home for the next 18 years.  This time around, I dropped Dan off at the Spokane train station so he could head east to continue his big journey. I continued west, through a landscape of sage and lava rock that struck me as so strange way back when. As I did then, I paused at the Columbia Gorge scenic overlook near Vantage to marvel at the sight.

Guys on Guye

Seattle was welcoming. I spent a week there, visiting with lots of great friends and enjoying some metropolitan benefits. I relaxed. I walked around. I rode my bike. I ate and drank yummy things. I ran errands. It was gratifying to be in a place so familiar to me, but with a new perspective.  I also got out of the city for a swell group hike up Snoqualmie Mountain -- one of my faves -- and nearby Guye Peak. It was a perfect day to get a reminiscent taste of of the Cascades; it was all sun and gorgeous Autumn weather up at Snoqualmie Pass, while the Puget Sound low country was trapped under persistent fog.

Poppy. Enough said.

I'm so glad I got to see so many great Seattle friends: Jack, Anne, Geoff, Larry, Peter, Liz, Ron, Lori, Max, Markus, Scott, Robin, Cluny, Cathy, Doug, Soni, Jeff, Heather, li'l Sam, Nick, Stephen, Dan, Rick, Pauline, Kanchan, Roman, Elaine. And, of course, my favorite cat, Poppy! For those I didn't get to see, I hope we'll stay in touch and that I will see you before too long.

Click here to explore photos and such from my visit to Seattle.

Making time for Moscow

Palouse Falls

No, not the capital of Russia. The college town in west Idaho where I wrapped up my October. I headed east from Seattle once again, this time to take my friend Laura up on her gracious offer to host my first visit to Moscow. I had been close one spring, years ago, while exploring Washington's Palouse Falls and Field Springs state parks, as well as the area where the meandering Grande Ronde River approaches the Snake. I briefly stopped at Palouse Falls again to check it out on my way to the Idaho border.

Hangin' by the campfire. I got the best seat!

Laura was a ton of fun! She made time to show me around Moscow -- including the Co-op (yum!), a couple of "downtown" eateries and the University of Idaho Arboretum. We got in some jogging, which I'm sure I needed.  We took advantage of a weekend to go camping with her friend Kat. What a formidable pair these two gals are in their matching VW Westy camper vans. Kat made sure we ate an amazing camp dinner, and I learned that great Alfredo sauce contains cheese and butter and cream! And then of course it was time for story telling and star gazing around a fire. Thanks, Laura, for showing me what an active place Moscow can be.

Pics from my stint in Moscow are buried at the bottom of this photo set.

PHOTO LINKS

Here's a listing of all the photo set links referenced above:

• Great Northern Mountain
• Dry Fork & Cut Bank Pass
• My last two work trips -- includes moose video!
• Huckleberry Lookout
• Western Montana explorations
• Northwest Wyoming -- includes my big Wind River hike
• Return to Washington (and a little Idaho)

OMG, look how much fun I'm having!

You could be having fun, too.
Contact me if you'd like to catch up with me in the southwest sometime in the next 6 months.